China Trip 2007 - Dragons Amongst the Mountains

Sunday 8th July
We set off from London Heathrow for China, heading for Guilin via Beijing. This year the Dreaming Dragon group consisted of two old regulars on the trips to China, Dipen and Roy, along with Shameer and Jackie, who were on their first trip. The group were accompanied by Master Zhao Junhui, Master Huang Ping and their daughter, Yoyo Zhao Siyu.

Monday 9th July
After several flights, we arrived in Gulin feeling very tired. The weather in Gulin is hot and humid with the average temperature at this time of the year being 30 degrees centigrade.

Tuesday 10th July
Gulin is renowned for its Karst peaks which are dotted through the city, and particularly concentrated along the river Li. Master Zhao Junhui had organized a local guide to take us around Guilin. We began with a visit to Lundi Yan (Reed Flute Cave). Ludi Yan has 33ft tunnels winding for 1640ft through the Guangming Hill. It was used as a hideout by Gulin's residents during WW2. Inside the cave, the rock formations are lit with neon lights. We then went to Xiangbi Shan (Elephant trunk hill), one of the city's most famous rock formations, it resembles an elephant taking a drink from the river Li.
According to local legend, a baggage elephant in an imperial convoy was abandoned by the riverside after it became sick. It was nursed back to health by an elderly couple, and afterwards the elephant refused to rejoin the convoy. It was then killed by the emperor and turned into the hill that stands there today. Further down in the river, statues of elephants roam the river for Dipen, Roy and Shameer to climb on!
Qixing Gongyuan (seven stars park) was next on our list. Within the park is a huge pictorial wall which shows history and ideas of China. Luotuo Shan (camel hill) which resembles a camel with one hump sits to the north of the park, with a memorial to President Clinton who visited in 1998. The last place we visited was Fubo Shan, (Wave subduing Hill), it houses a huge bronze bell and several hundred Budda images from the Song era.
That evening we were joined by Master Zhao Junhui’s friends...Liu Jian Xing, Zhang Go Ping, Fan Hong Bo, Lu Yun and Zhang Jian Sun...for some authentic Gulin cuisine. The dinner had a great atmosphere and much toasting was done with some fine rice wine as Shameer and I were given our first experience of Chinese culture and etiquette. The snake was particularly good which Roy very much appeared to enjoy, or was that the rice wine, or was that his drinking partner who had taken a shine to the smoothness of Roy’s head! After much food and a little drink we all went for a boat trip on the river Li through Gulin. The city was buzzing with activity and appeared even more alive at night. After such a busy day and night a few of our party chose to retire but myself, Dipen and Master Zhao Junhui were invited out for tea with Master Zhao Junhui friends, which was then followed by a midnight snack at a favorite local café! To finish the night on a truly special note we were driven back to our hotel in the Chief of police’s official car.

Wednesday 11th July
We woke up early this morning and were taken by minibus on to our next form of transport; a boat and a 4-hour cruise up the river Li to our next destination Yangshuo. The cruise along the river Li is like something straight out of a Chinese scroll painting, people still travel the river on low bamboo rafts and at the end of the river is Yangshuo, a market town surrounded by stunning hills and peaks. We had a quick rest and then onto our next adventure, stopping on route at a local market for Master Zhao Junhui, and Master Huang Ping to buy us some new interesting swim wear!
Geared up with our new outfits and armed with flip flops we were ready to go, and go we did, just downwards into one of the local caverns which is home to some amazing caves and also a large mud pool! Negotiating very old looking ladders, squeezing through some quite tight holes and scrambling over rocks, we knew we were in for an adventure. But great it was and well worth the trek especially as I got to sweep Roy in the mud pool who landed very gently on his posterior - must be all that tai chi! After a well earned shower we were off out again this time for dinner and a show.
The show took place outside on a lake surrounded by the peaks of Yangshuo, and it was truly breathtaking. The colors, lighting and choreography were amazing, it was like being in a film, and was in fact produced and directed by one of China’s famous film directors, Zhang Yimou. The actors and actresses were all local people (Zhuan Zu) which made it even more amazing. We then went for a stroll down Western street where we were joined by a friend of Master Zhao Junhui. After looking in some of the shops we went for tea and a few snacks before bed.

Thursday 12th July
On the 5th day we went for a leisurely river boat trip on part of the river Li. Our guide was a young lady of the Zhuan people.
As we drifted down the river we were treated to local songs sang by our guide, Master Zhao Junhui, Master Huang Ping and their daughter, Yoyo Zhao Siyu. We also watched first hand cormorant fishing. Tamed Cormorants have been used to fish for thousands of years, fisherman set off on bamboo rafts with cormorants wearing collars to prevent them from swallowing their catch. The bird swims just below the surface and when the bird makes a catch the fisherman pulls it from the river and retrieves the fish. What is quite amazing to watch is the gentleness of the fisherman with his birds.
In the afternoon we went for another mystery tour this time in the Longsheng area. The surrounding country side was stunning but we were going upwards to come down a different route, mini white water rafting! The mini part is the boat you are in – a two person inflatable raft, this was a different type of roller coaster altogether. Paired in two’s the journey begins at the top of the river with about 30 other boats trapped like sardines, then the ride begins with an approx 3 meter drop onto the rapids. This is not a quick ride it took a good 30 mins to get down to the bottom (please check this) but it was one of the most funny thrill seeking things I have done and I highly recommend it. At the end of the ride you are treated to a row of computers with digital photos caught by the many photographers scattered along the river banks to capture your ordeal, and some strong ginger tea. Needless to say the trip back to the hotel in Guilin was quite silent as we all fell asleep...even Dipen.
That evening we meet with Master Zhao Junhui army friends, and on this occasion there wives and children also joined us. After dinner the guys went for evening tea and chat at a local sports club. Master Huang Ping, Yoyo Zhao Siyu and myself went with the ladies and teenagers for a wander round Gulin shops at night. The amazing thing about China is that everything is still open the majority of the time. What stuck me was the modernism of this city beyond England’s.

Friday 13th July
Today was our last day in Guilin and we were invited to lunch with Master Zhao Junhui army friends in a local favorite restaurant. The fish fresh from the river that our table overlooked was superb as was the send off. That afternoon we flew to Kunming.
We were greeted at the airport by Master Zhao Junhui’s Mum, Sister and family, and taken to Roy and Dipen’s favorite hotel, "Luzhou Da Fandian". That evening we went for dinner with Master Zhao Junhui's sister, Li Ping, at a Muslim restaurant, where the duck was particularly nice.

Satday 14th July
This morning we were up and ready for some hard work as we were meeting Master Ren Ji Hua for some Tong Bei Quan training. Four of Master Ren Ji Hua's students joined us and we were given one-to-one teaching. They were very patient as we attempted to pick up the short form which we did on both sides and then presented what we had learnt to Master Ren Ji Hua. After a few photo’s we all had lunch and a chance to talk and exchange views on martial arts and compare life in China and England.
After dinner and wearing our new camouflage t-shirts Master Zhao Junhui, Master Huang Ping had organized a special treat for us. We were taken to a secret destination a man with a large case was waiting for us. Master Zhao Junhui, Master Huang Ping had arranged for us to meet their friend, Go Fei, a former member of the Chinese Olympic rifle team, and for us to test our marksmanship. A sport that looks a lot easier than it is and one that needs a good set of eyes, it was also nice to see that British made bullets are used all over the world.

Sunday 15th July
On the 8th day Master Zhao Junhui had arranged with a friend to take myself and Shameer to the Stone Forest. Celebrated as a natural wonder, and used in martial arts documentary, "This is Kung Fu". The limestone pillars are Yunnan’s most visited sight and it was on this day.
Our tour guide a young gentleman from the Sami minority managed to take us on a path less traveled, and its not surprising why, although he quickly climbed along the broken path, it took us a little longer, and at the peak of the climb Shameer crossed where I would not. I don’t have that good balance. Our young guide then took us to an art exhibition in the park, where we fortunate to meet an artist presenting his and his students work to obtain money for the college. Our guide then took us for some tea at the local park tea shop. The young lady took us through the different tea’s of the area and there healing qualities.
We were then returned by our guide to Master Zhao Junhui and went to meet Master Huang Ping, Roy and Dipen for some lunch. They had enjoyed a morning of shopping. We then went for a relaxing afternoon massage Burmese style which has less of the relaxing and more of the pain element. We were later met by Master Zhao Junhui and Master Huang Ping for dinner and a stroll around Kunming at night, a vibrant city at any time of day and night. The traffic as heavy as London but without the constant flow of bikes carrying the most amazing loads both in variety but also length of items. It has a technical visual ness that sets the city alive at night that I am only able to compare to Bangkok. Yet for such a vibrant bustling city there is a relaxed atmosphere, none of the hurrying urgency that we have in London.

Monday 16th July
Today we set off with two cars driven by Master Zhao Junhui and there friend, Zhang Qing, a small bag each, some picnic food and a long way ahead through the most amazing scenery. Our first destination was Dali a most beautiful town and home town of Master Zhao Junhui. The old town is surrounded by the remains of the Ming city walls and is characterized by cobbled streets and stone houses. The hotel we stayed in was as amazing as the town itself and you do begin to feel you are walking into a scene of "Crouching Tiger". There are plenty of tea houses and souvenir shops to wander around, which we did that afternoon. After dinner we went to see Dipen’s favorite show, "The Butterfly's Dream". A show that not only embraces the uniqueness of the different people of the Yunnan province but of the world. That night we joined Master Zhao Junhui and his old school friends who he had not seen for over 25 years at a tea house.
This was an amazing experience firstly because of the welcome we received and secondly to watch the tea being poured and offered by the shops host, a young woman. Her precise delicate yet fluid movements were poetry for the eye and hard to stop watching as you find yourself quite easily mesmerized by the elegance of the ceremony.

Tuesday 17th July
We were up early and off on our road trip. The mountain ranges are immense and you count yourself lucky for the comfort of the car. Our next stop on route was Baoshan the home town of Master Huang Ping and home of her family. We were greeted on arrival by her father, her Aunt, and her sisters, Fong Qi, Huang Ling and Huang Hong. Baoshan was an important staging post on the southern Silk Road to India, as early as the 5th century BC. Master Huang Ping family joined us for lunch taking us into the surrounding hills to a female Buddhist convent. The vibrant colors and architecture were breathtaking. The food was as equally amazing as although it was all vegetarian it was created to look like real fish and meat.
It was then back to the cars and onto our next destination somewhere in the surrounding hills of Tengchong. We arrived in a valley surrounded by mountainsides of hot springs, and jungle volcanoes and is a major seismic zone. It has had 70 earthquakes since records began in the 16thcentury.

Wednesday 18th July
After a good night sleep we woke early to try the hot springs, unfortunately the weather wasn’t going our way as heavy rain fell in the morning. However this did give us a little more time for some sleep. Later that morning we set off for a stroll up the hill side to look at the hot springs and the view from the top. To our surprise at the top was a hot springs spa, with different open pools, one with aloe vera leaves, and one with Roy’s favorite, rice wine. The weather was perfect for us a little drizzly, but warm, which also meant the baths were fairly empty. After some bathing, a stint in the sauna and some treatments we were relaxed enough to head on for some well earned food.
The restaurant we lunched at was truly was like the restaurant featured in the film "Crouching Tiger". The surrounding village was also stunning and a chance for us to practice our English on some local students! Tengchong prospered from the Silk Road trade and today it has preserved its traditional wooden architecture. In the north of town stands the British consulate established in 1899, a mix of Chinese and Victorian architecture it has been converted into a library and museum. At this point famous for its precious paper, Dipen was able to try out his calligraphy skills, at which both locals and visitors were all impressed. After doing a tour of the museum we then went to visit Heshun, which is 2 miles from the town founded in the Ming dynasty with its beautiful pavilions and gardens.
Then it was onto our hotel for the night. Master Huang Ping brother in law had arranged a special meal for us in this exquisite hotel, dinning with the Manager of the hotel and the head chief who had personally arranged the evening’s meal. This was our first experience of Chinese specialty food, and a selection of beautifully designed dishes were brought out, including a selection of interesting insects. We tried the more simple looking insect bee lava, which wasn’t bad, but the grubs we left to Zhang Qing.

Thursday 19th July
Today we started our long journey back to Baoshan. Staying in a hotel owned by some of Master Huang Ping's family we then went out to dinner with both friends of Master Huang Ping and Master Zhao Junhui and Master Huang Ping family. It was a vibrant welcoming dinner with much rice wine drunk by all. The hospitality of Master Huang Ping family was something like I have never experienced. I love traveling and have been fortunate in the places I have been able to visit but to be welcomed as we were and to experience China in such a personal way was a truly unforgettable experience.

Friday 20th July
After having breakfast with Master Huang Ping's family, we began the rest of our journey back to Kunming It was a long drive but we were able to stop off on route for some lunch in a pretty town which looked quite new. We then arrived back in Kunming later that afternoon with a little time to do a bit of shopping and exploring of Kunming by night. This is such a fantastic city.

Saturday 21st July
After a little lie in this morning we split up, Shameer met up with Yoyo Zhao Siyu and some friends to go shopping and Roy, Dipen and I met with Master Huang Ping to go round the markets. After making some purchases we joined the others for lunch at a restaurant which also provided a show. We were joined by Master Zhao Junhui's friend, along with his wife and son, who is also in the army and was telling us how he and a friend had cycled the trip we had just completed by car.
This was mine and Shameer's last day as we were to leave that afternoon for Beijing. Roy and Dipen however had another weeks worth of fun. For me however it was a holiday of a life time that has left me wanting to go back as soon as I can.
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