| China Trip 2004 - A Taste Of China |
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| MASTER HUANG PING'S dream - to take a group of her students to China - was fulfilled in July when ten of us plus Master Ping and her daughter, Si Yu, set off from Heathrow. |
| Our first stop in China was Tianjin, a large and impressive city to the south of Beijing. We were whisked there by coach and taken to our hotel by Master Huang Pei (Peter) who efficiently and warmly took care of us throughout our two-week stay. |
Saturday 17th July
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Tianjin is home to Master Zhang Hong Jun (Master Huang Ping's teacher) who generously gave us his time, great hospitality - and a very warm welcome.
Our first training session with Master Zhang was to take place on a paved ground close to the Sports Hotel. When we arrived there a group of about 80 students, wearing yellow Tshirts with red calligraphy, were practising QiGong exercises led by Master Zhang. He is one of the most impressive men we have ever encountered. He is very tall and built like a bear yet his movements are feline. Whether walking or practising Wushu, he is poetry in motion. His head is shaved and around his neck hangs splendid jade jewellery.
During this session we were introduced to Master Zhang's wife.
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Master Zhang's wife is statuesque and, together, they demonstrated 'pushing hands'. Master Zhang was enjoying himself and entertained us by throwing his partner around and putting her in various locks to demonstrate the combative side of his newly created style.
Before we knew it, students from the Master's school had swept us onto the training ground and were coaching us in a form of push hands that involves a waltz-like rhythm. Next we joined in the practice of a Qi Gong form created by Master Zhang 10 years ago and to which Master Huang Ping has introduced us in our Sunday evening training class. This form was named "Zhang Yi" (Original One)
by Master Zhang, but when it was officially introduced at the Shaolin Temple in August, the Chinese government renamed it 'Tortoise and White Crane'. The intention is that it will spread throughout China and be practised for health by the masses; as Master Zhang demonstrated, it also has lethal martial applications.
Master Zhang's students were of a very high standard and practised Wushu every morning, rain or shine! We were proud to be able to demonstrate some of the forms that Master Ping has taught us. Dipen and Michael gave impressive extracts of the Nan Quan form; Ray demonstrated part of the Chang Quan competition form and Paul, Ray and Max were led by Master Ping in the first section of the Chen style competition form.
When our session with Master Zhang was over, Paul, Ray, Dipen, Michael and Max were inspired to continue their training and, with Master Ping at the helm, they went through an hour of rigorous Wushu basics training.
We had lunch that day around a large table in a private room on the first floor of a Muslim restaurant, chosen by Master Huang Pei, friend and colleague of Master Ping's husband, Zhao Junhui. He did a wonderful job of looking after all of us in Tianjin and
was always smiling and joking! He helped us to our food saying 'everybody one '- which became one of our catchphrases.
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After lunch we met a friend and former martial arts colleague of master Ping who
arranged for us to watch a youth training session in a large, new Sports hall. Master Ping and her friend had been competition judges together. The Dreaming Dragon School was invited to use this splendid training facility for future workshops.
The young people were very disciplined and focused as they practised their forms, however, on their way home afterwards, they still had fun playfighting with plastic bottles! Back at the hotel, whilst most of the group went to have a rest before dinner, Andy and Max went to an open-air basket-ball court to shoot hoops with the locals. A kindly youth lent them a couple of coins for the court fee. They challenged a couple of Chinese lads to a game of 2 on 2 - Andy was a little out of practice and left Max to play out the game as the sole Dreaming Dragon representative.
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Sunday 18th July
Master Zhang had invited Master Ping and her entire group to lunch at his office in the centre of Tianjin. On our arrival at Master Zhang's office, he gave us a tour of his reception area where there were many photos of his previous Masters and of events during his life. He gave a brief introduction to his masters and told many stories of his training from his younger days and also of his experiences when starring in a movie called "Xanda" which was produced by the legendary Hong Kong director, Tsui Hark. After requests from some of Master Ping's students, Master Zhang demonstrated his newly-created martial art on Roy and Dipen. It was an experience that both Roy and Dipen will never forget as they both struggled against the internal power of Master Zhang. Afterwards we were entertained to a most convivial lunch - some might say too convivial - the rice wine was slipping down easily with many toasts and clinking of glasses! It was clear to us all that Master Zhang is very proud of Ping. We all felt very privileged to be there. |
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| Master Zhang Hong Jun and Master Huang Ping with the Dreaming Dragon group |
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| We all wore our Dreaming Dragon T shirts, designed by Ping's husband, Zhao Junhui , so were very much a "team". |
Monday 19th July
The next morning, we all set off early to visit the Tianjin Wushu team at a training session in an out-of-town location.
The training facility, like that which we had visited the previous day, was divided into three separate areas, each defined by different coloured carpets. The athletes were spectacularly good - particularly three young girls fighting with two swords and a spear. They moved with great speed and precision, didn’t seem to make any mistakes and it was no surprise to learn that they had won gold medals in the national championships. There were several athletes practising T’ai Chi 42 competition form, also with impeccable style, however Master Ping noticed some recent changes in
particular a jump which had been added to the form.
After lunch we visited the site of several mausolea of empresses and emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties, dating from mid 17th to early 19th centuries A.D. - the site chosen for its Feng Shui - and we drove down a long approach road lined with sculptures of animals, including camels and elephants. The underground tombs were magnificent, with walls inscribed in Sanskrit.
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| During our three - day stay we ate like kings (as we did at every meal for the whole two weeks). DUMPLINGS! - they were superb! So many different fillings. Another beautiful restaurant filled with antiques, furniture and artefacts in ancient stone and bronze served us with light, elegant food. These evenings ended with visits to massage parlours - segregated and very professionally run, of course, - the foot massages were truly amazing! |
Tuesday 20th July We flew to Kunming city ( Master Ping's home) in the evening to............ |
| The most fantastic welcome at the airport!!! |
| There were banners, smiling faces, red roses, photo flashes - and in the centre, directing the event, Zhao Junhui - master planner and choreographer extraordinaire, hugging everyone ( a habit he picked up in the U K last summer!) - and SO happy to see his wife and daughter, too. |
| First impressions of Kunming City : light, modern airport, lots of flowers andplants. Journey to the hotel along streets lined with flowers - a very elegant city, full of impressive, modern buildings - some wonderful architecture. Our hotel was built around a courtyard garden, pagoda-style buildings etched in coloured lights - magical! |
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We had a welcome tea-tasting in the adjoining tea-house - and a BIG cake decorated with the Dreaming Dragon logo (also designed by Zhao Junhui). |
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We fed the carp in the lake,taking shelter in from the rainunder the pagoda , then headed for a spectacular cave system. |
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Wednesday 21st July Morning in the Stone Forest - huge rock formations, winding, and sometimes steep, paths cut into them - up to high vantage points, a pagoda perched in the distance - very impressive. Guides dressed in traditional costumes -two were singing, joined by Ping, Chinese songs - very pure, sweet voices. |
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Thursday 22nd July Next day we travelled by coach up into the mountains and saw great views of Kunming and its lake which was like a small sea. The air is light and fresh here, the countryside lush and green. There is a huge variety of trees and fields of rice and corn. We visited exquisite temples, brightly painted and surrounded by water and trees. |
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The yellow-coloured river crashed and thundered its way down through the bedrock where stalactites, stalagmites (possibly even troglodytes!) and weird rock-pools were everywhere lit by coloured lights - very exciting and beautiful -a real "Son et Lumiere". |
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Ruth and David were celebrating their 41st wedding anniversary on this date. So Junhui had arranged a wonderful lunch at our Kunming hotel - a huge arrangement of orchids was presented to them! - An anniversary to remember!! |
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| After lunch we went to a village with of thatched houses and artefacts of daily village life - including a grinding stone, which reminded the strongest amongst us of how they should be using their 'dantian' when doing T'ai Chi!! Pipe music accompanied us wherever we went - and will always evoke the colour and warmth that greeted us. |
| We dined in the AINI restaurant that evening. A huge, light, airy place with light wood everywhere. Huge, round table, all the serving staff in rich costumes, beautiful people. Ping asked us to turn our chairs around and straddle them - then we were each given a neck, shoulder & back massage - Fabulous! |
We then had the most amazing array of food. Everything was really light and delicious - a supreme artist in the kitchen!And the dishes just kept on coming!!! |
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| In fact every meal we have had on this wonderful trip has been superb - thanks to so much thought and planning by Junhui and Ping. |
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We were entertained by dancers and musicians and invited on stage to try stepping in and out of two long, parallel bamboo poles held at each end on the floor and moved together progressively faster!! David won - very nifty footwork!!. |
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Friday 23rd July
This magical evening was followed by a visit the next morning to the vast Botanical gardens in Kunming. Very impressive indeed. Light, open spaces large flower beds, carpets of blue salvias and marigolds. The vegetable garden was superb, beautifully planted and immaculately kept. |
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Our guide was also very beautiful ! |
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We spent the afternoon in the park in the centre of the city - Ping’s chilldhood haunt.Although there were a lot of people around, the park was very peaceful, with lakes on which floated lotus and water lilies. At its heart a temple quietly reflected in the surrounding water. And, of course, friendly, warm people wherever we go. |
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| After dinner we took the sleeper train to Dali ( Junhui’s city). The station was teeming with so many people - July is the main holiday season, so everyone is on the move. After a very smooth and comfortable journey and we arrived in Dali at around 5 a.m. some what bleary-eyed , for breakfast. |
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Saturday 24th July
Spent in Dali - first on a large boat crossing the lake, stopping off at various spots. On its several decks, there were massage rooms, karaoke rooms and a large tea-room where we tasted different teas - the one made with almonds and honey was delicious ! |
| We were the only Europeans on the boat - so attracted some friendly interest! After a delightful lunch by the lakeside, we visited a beautiful place which had been the home of an artist, but now is a small guest house - we took tea in the garden and explored the house - an idyllic place. Back to Dali - some of us just slept on the small boat - A visit to a magical woodland place where butterflies gather in their thousands in the Spring and are festooned like garlands across the trees which dipped down to the water. Very cool, very quiet, very still. |
| We arrived at yet another beautiful hotel - in Dali, before going out again for another superb meal. London food will seem VERY dull indeed after these twice-daily banquets! |
| Dinner was spent in the charming company of Junhui and Ping’s family and friends who made us so welcome - as we hesitated with our fledgling Mandarin - except for Dipen and Michael, who have impressed us all with their fluency (AND their Mandarin!!! ). |
| We ended the evening in a Tibetan cafe - drinking tea made with buttermilk! Dali is a very attractive town, the old part has fine wooden houses, uniformly painted white with black designs etched onto them - reminiscent of ‘grisaille’ stained glass - weathered and very elegant. A place to go back to - and stay for longer. |
Sunday 25th July
Journey by coach from Dali to Lijang - beautiful scenery. So many greens, from the bright, sharp, acid greens of the fields and rice crops through every shade to the tree covered hills and the blue mist-veiled distant mountains. As we climbed steadily , the vast panoramas opened up on all sides, distant rivers snaking around hills and valleys - blue skies, sunshine and very clear air. |
| Lijang - One of the most beautiful places most of us had ever seen. Situated at one end of a wide valley floor between two ranges of hills. A region, 2400m above sea level, of gorges, lakes and meadows where the Naxi people breed horses. To the north of the city are Mt Elephant and Mt Rainbow and to the west is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. |
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Now a world heritage site and rebuilt after earthquake damage, the old centre of Lijang is completely pedestrianised - not even bicycles - just people. Streets paved with centuries-old cobbles, worn smooth and flat by mountain water which runs in canals connecting every house, the whole network crisscrossed with many wooden bridges. The effect is stunningly beautiful, the canals have weeping willows flowing alongside them and the whole scene is adorned by the half timbered, two storey houses with their red satin lamps strung along carved balustraded balconies. |
Add to that so many marvellous restaurants and shops - and at night the magic of candles floating down the streams , the red lamps lit up and reflected in the water - you could believe that you were in heaven - and you never want to leave it!!! |
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Monday 26th July From Lijang we travelled to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which can be seen from Lijang city. |
| Went up, and down, by cable cars and chair lifts. At the top ( over 5,500m above sea level) there is year-round snow on the high peaks, the mists were constantly moving like veils and the textures in the grey rock showed the movement of the melting glaciers millennia ago - awesome! The pictures tell the story - most of the group walked along the ropeway almost to the top - then were thwarted by the mists. |
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There were some memorable encounters during this trip - this was one of them! |
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| Down from the mountain - and a meeting with some yaks - there were some who got closer than others! The water was SO clear and the light was perfect! |
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| Back to Lijang via ShangriLa - a perfectly situated place along the valley from Lijang. We walked up the hill following a winding path through wild flower meadows, buttercups, clover orchids and gentians attracting bees, dragonflies and birds. We walked in the hot sunshine across streams to the buildings of the Naxi people, then the path descended to a huge pool filled with clear, cold mountain water - it tasted sweet. The pool was shaded by two ancienttrees whose branches met to form a canopy; the only sounds were of birdsong and of running water. There were carp in the lake - coloured from pale pinks to rich, dark gold. |
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| A very beautiful, peaceful place with spiritual energy and power. |
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| Whilst in Lijang we saw , and heard, a wonderful classical Chinese orchestra, some of whose members were well into their eighties. The stage was filled with colour and rich sounds. The musicians were stately in their rich silks and satins - the instruments looked no less exotic to our European eyes - and the music was haunting and beautiful. Their dedicated, and very lively master has toured the world with them - we were, again, privileged to go onto the stage after the performance and shake hands with him. |
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| On our last evening in Lijang we saw a spectacular show, full of energy - dancing and music, rich costumes and dramatic lighting effects. We strolled through the narrow streets and over the bridges of Lijang - all lit up and buzzy, the air a perfect temperature. the shops were all open, red lanterns were everywhere and there were candles floating in paper boats along the water. Every light was reflected in the canals, the willow trees, too, were illuminated from underneath - giving the whole town a really magical atmosphere. |
Tuesday 27th July Next morning there was a little shopping to be done - and a small cafe selling ginger tea and chocolate cake - not to be resisted! |
| We flew back to Kunming city and checked in at a modern hotel near some very impressive shops - where we were greeted by Master Huang - and each given a beautiful photograph album, personalised, to commemorate our visit. Another example of the thought,and attention to detail, of everyone involved in this memorable experience! |
| Then we were out again for a special dinner at a traditional Kunming restaurant, with special dinner guests - some of Junhui and Master Huang’s army friends, who looked very impressive in their uniforms - much toasting and clinking of glasses again! A great evening. |
Wednesday 28th July
Our last day in Kunming - and lunch at the Aini restaurant - another brilliant massage and another fabulous lunch. It was great to be there again, listening to the pipe music, which will always remind us of this time, and watching the dancers. We said goodbye to Patricia and Andy, who are going on to Guilin, then revisited the tea house where our journey began ten days before. We said goodbye to Roy - who was staying on in Kunming for a while and headed out to the airport - reluctantly, we all wished we were staying for much longer! |
| Arrived in Beijing, which was pretty humid, got to our hotel rooms at 2.a.m. and flew back home on the next day, July 29th, having seen and done so much - and knowing that we will all go back to China - to its lakes and mountains, temples and cities - and, most of all, to its people - especially all the friends we now have there! |
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